Panning with different shutter speeds 

Pictures 1, 2 and 3 were taken later in the day after doing project 4 (shutter speeds).  The sky had clouded over therefore giving me the opportunity to make the shutter speed slower (earlier in the day the slowest shutter speed that I could achieve was 1/80sec).   Pictures 4 and 5 were taken on the following day with  faster shutter speeds . 1a
                   pic 1:  1/30sec  f4.5  35mm equivalent f l 72mm  P1030533a
                  pic 2:  1/30 sec  f4 35mm equivalent fl 72mm 
P1030534a
                 pic 3:  1/30sec  f4.5  35mm equivalent fl72mm
P1030554a
                    pic 4: 1/400  f5.6  35mm equivalent fl 76mm
P1030561a
                    pic 5:  1/125sec  f3.6  35mm equivalent fl 175mm

 The brief of this task was to pan a moving object at different shutter speeds.  As my bridge camera achieves an approximate fps (frames per second) of 1.87sec per shot this proved to be quite challenging,  especially as the mini ( in the first three photos) had a relatively short run on a driveway.  I was hoping to achieve a consecutive sequence of three shots at a shutter speed of 1/30sec then do the same for the quicker shutter speed sequences.   It was not long before I realised that I was trying to do the impossible ( the shutter lag was too great),  therefore the first three pictures are from different sequences.  The first picture I am very pleased with.  The blurring of the background (achieved by the panning) gives a real sense of speed of the mini, and because I was able to achieve  a slow shutter speed of 1/30sec there is lots of movement in the wheels.  Again, picture 2 shows movement,  but not as much as picture1 ( this is probably because the mini was moving at a slower speed).  In picture 3 the sense of speed is much less as the mini is coming to an abrupt halt in order to avoid the stone wall!!!  Pictures 4 and 5 were shot on the following day. With a fast shutter speed of 1/400sec picture 4 looks static and lacks impact.  Picture 5 was taken on the nearby main road -  I wanted to see if  when having a much longer length of road I would be able to achieve the sequence of three consecutive shots. I failed!   Even with the longer run of  road the fps was far to slow. Picture 5 was shot at a shutter speed of 1/125 sec.  I like the low angle of view, but I believe that it would have been a much better picture shot at a slower shutter speed of 1/30sec or less (which I was unable to achieve as it was a very sunny day).

Even though I had been frustrated by the relatively slow fps and the narrow range of aperture/shutter speeds, I really enjoyed doing this project.  I felt that I was more at one with my camera.  It was very difficult to adhere to the brief of the task as I felt an urge to discover angles and shoot low etc….
I do wonder if an experienced photographer would have been able to achieve the the 3 shot sequence with my bridge camera?  I will have to ask some of my fellow students!

What I have learnt

  • The action of panning blurs the background

Useful learning material for this project

www.ephotozine.com/article/Camera-panning-4768

Questions to ask my tutor

  •   Should I have used a filter to decrease the light reaching the camera sensor in order to obtain a lower shutter speed?

 Shutter speeds

The pictures below were taken from one spot with my bridge camera on a tripod at a 35mm equivalent focal length of 72mm.  As with the Aperture Project I found shooting with my camera set at Shutter Priority disappointing in certain situations.  As it was a bright day, my camera could only achieve a 1/80 of a second slowest shutter speed.   

1/80sec  f8  iso100  1/80sec f8 iso100

  

1/160sec  f8  iso100 1/160sec f8 iso100

    

1/250sec  f7.1  iso100 1/250sec f7.1 iso100

       

1/500sec  f5  iso100 1/500sec f5 iso100
  
1/800  f4  iso100 1/800 f4 iso100

Picture 1  does portray movement in the mini but not dramatically so.  As the other four pictures show the mini to be seemingly  motionless, yet having a sharper resolution on the vehicle as the shutter speed increased.

As picture one doesn’t show the sense of movement that I would have wished for, I would (reluctantly) go for picture 5 as my favourite for the clarity of the mini and for its positioning in the frame.

What I have learnt

  • That a wide aperture range is needed in order to reciprocate the shutter speed thus enabling slower shutter speeds to give more of an artistic and dramatical effects(blurring) in Shutter Speed priority.

 

Focal length and angle of view

The following pictures were taken in order to ascertain the standard focal length of my camera (Panasonic Lumix DMC – FZ18).  

 

Picture1:  longest focal length 83mm

P1030414         

Picture 2:   standard focal length 15mm

P1030412 

 Picture 3:   shortest focal length 5mm

  P1030413

  

 The middle picture shows the approximate standard focal length of my camera (the standard focal length being the focal length of the human eye), I say approximate because as my camera has a fixed lens with no focal length markings, I had to view the scene having one eye looking through the viewfinder and the other eye looking directly at the subject.  I adjusted the focal length until I believed  that  both views had merged into one ( it was very difficult to be certain that it was exact).

The first and third pictures show the two extremes of the focal length of my camera.

After taking the pictures I returned to the location of the subject and stood at the point at which I took the shots.  With A4 size prints of each focal length I held the prints in front of me to analyse the results of the shoot.  With the photos shot at the shortest and longest focal lengths I felt that I was unable to hold them close/far away enough ( as the case may be) in order to see in the photo the same size of the subject as my eye saw.  As for the standard focal length, holding the print at a comfortable length from my eyes I found the A4 print  to be a more true representation of the size in which I could see the subject in situ.

What I have learnt

The appreciation of the focal range and angle of view of my camera and the realisation of the standard focal length.

Questions to ask my tutor

Should I refer to the 35mm equivalent focal length?

focus with different apertures

The following pictures of the Boggle game were taken on Aperture Priority and at an acute angle all focused on the middle letter P. There is a difference in clarity between picture 1 and picture 3. In picture 1( f/3.2 ) there is an obvious focus point around the letter P and the foreground and background are clearly not within the DoF. In picture 3 (f/8)  the letter D in the foreground and the Boggle box piled with letter cubes in the background are more in focus which indicates that the DoP has gained more depth from the point of focus( letter P). When comparing picture 2(f/5) with picures 1 and 3 the change of DoF is less evident.

depthf/3.2 exp1/15

depthf/5 exp1/6

depthf/8 exp 1/2 sec

In doing this project I realised that my camera had a very limited aperture range f2.8 – f8.   As DSLRs  have a range far more extensive fi - f32 for example.  The results of a DSLR camera taking the same Boggle pictures would have shown ( I believe ) a far clearer result of the widening of the DoP.  Without doubt this project has taught me that the aperture setting is a very important tool for increasing /decreasing the DoF.

The Aperture and Shutter Speed in the three pictures were  f/3.2  1/15,     f/5  1/6,   f/8 1/2.  As the aperture decreases in size the exposure time is longer in order to maintain the same exposure.

What I have learnt

 

  •   The connection between Aperture size and DoF.
  •    The reciprocal relationship between Shutter Speed and Aperture.
  •    The recognition that my camera has limitations.
  •    The smaller the aperture the sharper the overall picture.

 

focus with a set aperture

 My chosen scene had considerable depth consisting of fields, trees and fences.  I focused on three different subjects with the aperture at the lowest setting  that my camera would allow.  After having studied the prints I decided that the sharp focus in the three different areas was evident, but not eye-catchingly so.  I wanted to experiment further.  With Pots and Pebbles I created the scene in the garden.  This time the scene had considerably less depth.  My aim was to accentuate the points of focus.  My camera was set at aperture priority, focal length 83mm, iso 100  and an aperture of  f/4.2.  Here are the results of the shoot.

pots and pebbles

 

 

 

 

 

 

pots and pebbles

pots and pebbles

My favourite picture:  The 1st and 2nd pictures I like.   In both cases ones eye is drawn instantly to an obvious area of sharp  focus  (The Depth of Field)  and within the DoF is a subject that warrants observation within that overall scene.  For example:  if the picture were just three similar pots without pebbles or cones.  Why focus on just one of the pots?  I would choose to have a wider DoF and show all the pots clearly.

In the 1st picture the black pebble is particularly striking. It has a beautiful colour and form.  If I wanted a photograph to illustrate the beauty of pebbles this would certainly be my favourite.

The 3rd picture I don’t like.  The large pot in the background is just that……background!  Yet it is highlighted by the point of focus and in doing so leaves the pretty Pot of cones and the beautiful Pebble unfocused – outside of the DoF.

To return to my first attempt of Project 2 ( the landscape scene ). The whole scene was beautiful, yet looking back now,  there was no particular zone or single subject within the scene that begged for particular immersion. The three different areas that I focused on were a tree, a field and a row of trees. My choice of subject for the project was poor. In my opinion, the photograph required a very wide  DoF.  Yet my poor selection of  the scene did instigate further study on this particular project which in return, I believe, helped me to understand the fundamentals of the DoF.

What I have  learnt.

  • The basic understanding of  DoF and in the choosing of when to increase or decrease the zone of sharpness in certain scenes.
  • That a longer Focal Length decreases the DoF.

Useful learning  material for this project

 www.youtube.com/watch?v=s80JwJdx_7s

www.ephotozine.com/article/Depthoffield-explained-4631

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